Made in Mesopotamia

Gold crown from Ur.

The history of Mesopotamian jewelry

By Adhid Miri, PhD

Mesopotamia, often called the “birthplace of civilization,” was one of the earliest centers where the development of philosophy, religion, science, and technology helped humanity transition from prehistoric times into the modern era. Today, the legacy of Mesopotamia remains relevant, as many of its innovations, particularly in writing, law, and culture, have shaped the course of human history.

One of the most enduring aspects of Mesopotamian culture is its rich tradition of jewelry making, which emerged as a way for people to express their status, power, and religious beliefs. Mesopotamian jewelry provides valuable insights into the society, culture, and lifestyle of one of the world’s earliest civilizations.

The Birth of Jewelry in Mesopotamia
The story of Mesopotamian jewelry begins with the Sumerians, around 3000 BCE. They are credited with inventing jewelry and introducing advanced techniques like granulation and filigree around 2750 BCE. These techniques not only demonstrated exceptional craftsmanship but also gave rise to jewelry that became an integral part of everyday life. Jewelry in ancient Mesopotamia wasn’t just for the wealthy elite; it was worn by people of all classes—men, women, and children alike.

The Sumerians are particularly notable for their contributions to jewelry-making, setting the stage for later Mesopotamian civilizations such as the Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians. Their innovations, both aesthetic and technical, had a profound impact on the development of jewelry throughout the ancient and modern worlds.

Materials and Craftsmanship
Mesopotamian jewelers worked with a wide range of materials, including gold, silver, copper, and various gemstones. Lapis lazuli, one of the most prized materials, was often used in elaborate necklaces, bracelets, and other decorative items. Notably, lapis lazuli was considered more valuable than gold in certain periods. The gemstones, including carnelian, jade, and turquoise, were sourced from regions as far away as Afghanistan and the Indus Valley, making jewelry a commodity that transcended Mesopotamia’s borders.

The craftsmanship of Mesopotamian jewelers was highly advanced. Filigree, a technique where fine threads of metal are twisted and welded onto a surface, was a common method. Jewelers also practiced “open fusion,” where molten metal was poured into stone molds to create intricate designs. The spread of these techniques and the importation of precious materials spurred economic growth, fueling a thriving trade network.

Jewelry as Symbolism and Status
Jewelry in Mesopotamia was not only a form of adornment but also a powerful status symbol. It marked an individual’s wealth, power, and social standing. Royals, priests, and nobles wore jewelry to demonstrate their elite status, while common people wore simpler pieces. Interestingly, jewelry was a part of daily life for everyone, unlike in other ancient civilizations where it was reserved for the elite.

A wide variety of jewelry was worn by men, women, and children. Men often wore bracelets, earrings, necklaces, and headbands, while women adorned themselves with elaborate floral ornaments, large earrings, belts, and necklaces. Children, too, wore jewelry, signaling their inclusion in the cultural practices of their society.

Iconic Jewelry Styles and Techniques
Mesopotamian jewelry was large and often highly ornate. The wealthiest individuals wore massive gold earrings, sometimes so large they were designed to be hooked over the ear, as opposed to dangling. Common decorative items included ankle bracelets, hair rings, pendants, signet rings, and amulets.

The techniques used to craft these items were highly sophisticated. Cloisonné, engraving, and granulation were among the many methods employed to create intricate designs, often set with gemstones like agate, lapis lazuli, and carnelian.

The Role of Jewelry in Mesopotamian Life
Jewelry played many roles in ancient Mesopotamian society. It was used in religious rituals, as offerings to the gods, and in burial practices, where individuals were often buried with their most valuable possessions, including jewelry, to ensure a successful journey into the afterlife. Jewelry was also used as a tool in diplomacy, wealth, and status, often exchanged as gifts or part of dowries.

Jewelry in Mesopotamia was closely tied to astrology and religion. The Mesopotamians believed that the planets controlled the fate of individuals and societies. As a result, certain gemstones were associated with specific planets, laying the groundwork for the concept of birthstones.

The Tombs of Ur and Other Finds
Some of the most significant discoveries of Mesopotamian jewelry have been made in royal tombs, particularly at Ur and Nimrud. The tombs at Ur, in modern-day Iraq, contained more than 1,000 pieces of jewelry, including intricate gold necklaces, lapis lazuli chokers, and carnelian earrings. These tombs have provided invaluable insights into the jewelry of the time and the role it played in both the afterlife and in daily life.

The tombs of Nimrud, which date to the 8th century BCE, yielded approximately 1,500 pieces of jewelry, weighing around 100 pounds. These discoveries underscore the importance of jewelry not only as personal adornment but also as a symbol of power, wealth, and cultural identity.

Sumerian and Babylonian Jewelry
The Sumerians were pioneers in jewelry-making, creating highly detailed pieces that set the standard for future civilizations. By the time their civilization ended around 2000 BCE, their jewelry was already considered ancient. Many of the techniques and materials used by Sumerian jewelers were passed down to later cultures, including the Babylonians.

The Babylonians, known for their wealth and opulence, favored large, decorative jewelry such as diadems, rings, and elaborate earrings. They wore these pieces not only for personal adornment but also to symbolize their high social status. Unlike other civilizations, Babylonian jewelry was not typically worn on the neck or chest but instead featured cylinder seals made from materials like jasper or chalcedony, which were used to mark ownership and as symbols of authority.

Legacy of Mesopotamian Jewelry
The legacy of Mesopotamian jewelry is still visible today, with many ancient pieces preserved through burial practices and the passage of time. These artifacts provide a window into the culture and society of one of the world’s earliest civilizations.

In addition to its cultural and aesthetic value, Mesopotamian jewelry helped establish the foundations for modern jewelry-making techniques. The Sumerians, in particular, are credited with laying the groundwork for many of the techniques used by jewelers throughout history. The study of Mesopotamian jewelry continues to inspire contemporary jewelers and scholars, offering a glimpse into a world of extraordinary craftsmanship, symbolism, and cultural significance.

Conclusion
In ancient Mesopotamia, jewelry was much more than a decorative accessory—it was a symbol of wealth, power, and religious devotion. Through their advanced techniques and exquisite designs, the Sumerians and their successors created jewelry that has endured for millennia. Today, we continue to be fascinated by these ancient treasures, which offer a window into the rich history and culture of one of the earliest human civilizations.

Sources: Wikipedia; All Mesopotamia, Nemet-Nejat, Karen Rhea; Daily Life in Ancient Mesopotamia, Laleh Javaheri-Saatchi, via the Collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art; and articles by Dr. Kim Benzel, Julia Friedman, and Jimmy Joe.