Amira Daboul Offers Chaldean Recipes in New Cookbook, Awafi
By Z.Z. Dawod
It all began with that familiar word… Awafi!
Amira Daboul was well into the writing of her first cookbook before a title occurred to her. While working with her editor, Linda Schwartz, “awafi” was a word Amira would mention upon finalizing each recipe. One day, they looked at each other and the idea seemed to strike at once — Amira had found a name for the cookbook.
According to Awafi!, Amira was inspired to collect these recipes in the form of a cookbook to preserve the traditions and pass them down for future generations. Amira’s hope is for her children, grandchildren, and their children to always have a way of creating the delicious dishes of their culture and heritage, inspired by the flavors of their homeland.
Culture and History
Born in the village of Tel Keppe, Iraq, Amira, along with her siblings and parents all lived with grandparents Youma Bata and Baba Mikho Baja.
“My happiest memories go back to my beloved grandmother, Youma Bata, who loved cooking for her 20 grandchildren,” Amira writes in Awafi!.
Growing up in Tel Keppe, Amira recalls that life was simpler. People were humble, full of faith, respectful of each other, and everyone worked together. They baked bread and milked cows for milk, from which they made yogurt, cheese, and cream.
Barley and wheat were first domesticated in the Middle East approximately 10,000 years ago. According to the Chaldean Cultural Center, Chaldeans developed an agrarian society, with most villagers’ main occupation being farming.
Like others in her village, Amira’s family grew barley on their farm and sold it to make their living. Grinding was done much as it was in ancient times — with a millstone or grinding stone, which consisted of two stacked stones of about 20 inches in diameter, with a handle on the top stone for turning. The grain was fed through a hole in the center and ground barley came out the other side. The barley was then sifted and sorted into coarse, medium, and fine grades.
Every bit was used for different dishes. “Nothing [was] wasted. Any amount that couldn’t be sold, would be used for cooking at home,” Amira remembers. As an example, the fine barley was used for soups and Tapayatha, a favorite family dish.
A Family Tradition
Amira grew up as one of nine children in the Kuza family. Among her earliest memories is being next to her mom at the age of ten and helping in the kitchen, along with her sisters and brothers. “I consider my mother to be a very good cook, always looked up to her and try to make dishes to taste just like hers,” Amira proudly recalls.
As a mother of four herself, Amira raised her children to eat home-cooked meals that followed the same recipes she had been making through the years — with her grandmother Youma Bata, her mother Sabria and mother-in-law, Hayat. Growing up, her children fell in love with the Chaldean cuisine. As adults, they began to ask for the recipes so they, too, could continue making the traditional dishes for their own children, just as their mother had done.
Looking back, Amira realized that when she was cooking alongside her grandmother, there were no written instructions for making the dishes. When she’d ask Youma how much salt to add, her grandmother would just cup her hand and say, “this much,” Amira laughs.
The idea for a cookbook emerged from the need to preserve these recipes. To move forward, Amira had to create the correct measurements through trial and error to achieve the desired flavor. Then began the painstaking task of putting into words the detailed directions to prepare these beloved family dishes.
One family favorite is Tapayatha Pusra. Easy to make, it is also easy to keep and makes for a great snack. Always fresh, the mixture stays in a fridge for five days and takes just a few minutes to fry. Amira follows her grandmother’s unique Tapayatha recipe, which is made with cream of wheat instead of regular flour, for an extra crispy taste.
Making the Tapayatha Pusra
After all ingredients are gathered, the first step is to combine everything in a large bowl. “Mixing with bare hands is the traditional way. Makes the food taste better, no gloves, feel the texture and mix it ’til right consistency,” Amira explains.
After mixing it thoroughly, the mixture should be stored in the refrigerator for 3-4 hours or overnight. The batter needs to be chilled before frying. Once the batter is ready for frying, place a large piece of plastic wrap on the countertop. Add two cups of vegetable oil to frying pan and heat oil to a high temperature. While the oil is heating, it is time to make the patties.
To prevent the batter from sticking, dip your hands in water before handling. On the plastic wrap, form egg-sized patties then press down with your fingers to flatten to size of hamburgers. Place 4-5 patties in hot oil. Cook 1-1/2 minutes on each side until golden brown. Then, drain on paper towels and repeat until all patties are fried. Serve with yogurt sauce, tomatoes, parsley, green onions, and pickles. Awafi!
Looking Forward
Writing Awafi! took a lot of hard work, but it was also a labor of love. The process involved cooking for her children and grandchildren, which Amira says is a pure pleasure.
In addition to following traditional recipes, Amira often experiments with new combinations for dishes when she’s hungry. For her next project, she is working on a collection of recipes from various other cultures. One thing is for sure, Amira still has a lot more cooking to do.
To purchase Awafi, send an email to OrderAmirasKitchen@gmail.com or visit AmirasKitchen.com. The book is also available at select area retailers, including Babylon Foods and Ishtar Market in West Bloomfield; Sahara Market in Sterling Heights; and CK Gift Shop in Madison Heights.