First Tango with Mango: Iraqi Amba

By Adhid Miri, PhD

In the world of culinary delights, few things can match the mouthwatering tang and flavor offered by a good old-fashioned Iraqi mango pickle (amba).

To tell the story of amba, or as it is popularly known in India, Aam ka Achar, we must begin with the story of Indian Ocean trade and the long-standing historical network of merchants who traversed this massive body of water for millennia bringing spices, people, and ideas to Basra-Iraq from all directions.

Iraqis traditionally do not use curry and hot peppers in their cooking. Amba sauce was transferred from the Indian peninsula to Basra-Iraq by Iraqi Jewish merchants in Bombay. The product found its way to the Souq Hanoon and Shorja markets in Baghdad at the beginning of the twentieth century where it was modified and popularized to fit the mild taste of Iraqi cuisine.

In this article, we delve into the rich history of amba in Iraq, exploring its journey from a humble homemade delight to a beloved condiment that can be enjoyed with many traditional Iraqi dishes, adding a burst of freshness and a tangy twist to many meals.

Pickling

Pickling was one of the very limited number of ways to preserve food before the invention of canning (about 200 years ago) and modern refrigeration. This process has been an integral part of civilizations and an ancient practice to preserve food for long journeys. Almost anything can be preserved through pickling—fruits, vegetables, berries, leaves, roots, and even some meats.

Vegetables and fruits get spoiled due to the presence of moisture in them. One of the ways to preserve some of these items for a longer period is the pickling process. Mangoes get spoiled in a few days, but a mango pickle lasts for several months.

The true history of pickles remains somewhat a mystery. They were introduced so far back in the mists of history that no one knows exactly when, although some believe they date back to India some 4,030 years ago. Pickles are mentioned in the Bible, in the Old Testament books Numbers and Isaiah. Cleopatra attributed some of her beauty to pickles, Aristotle claimed that pickled cucumbers had healing properties, Napolean valued the pickle’s health benefits for his army, and reportedly, George Washington had a collection of 476 different kinds of pickles. (I wonder if he ate them all.)

What is Amba?

Amba is a liquid sauce with a hot spicy taste that is widely used in Iraqi food. It is typically made of pickled green mangoes, vinegar, salt, turmeric, chili, and fenugreek. The Iraqi amba may have been derived from a type of pickle spread in India and the Arabian Gulf called green mango chutney.

Amba is available in the market either in the form of a prepared liquid in a glass bottle with a wide mouth to allow the flow of liquid and the mango fruit pickled in it, or in the form of a powder from which the dough is prepared by adding water and vinegar to it.

To Iraqis, opening a bottle of amba is a universally enjoyable experience. The aroma of spices takes us back to our childhood, and the fiery peppers and colorful fruits in the mixture are a sight to behold.

Amba is eaten alone or added to falafel, shawarma sandwiches, boiled eggs, eggplant, or fried potatoes and is considered one of the best ingredients in Iraqi food. Amba is best when paired with Hyderabadi biryani, one of the most popular rice dishes. It is also the basic material for preparing certain types of Iraqi Turshi.

One of the amba’s primary purposes is related to its ability to mask whatever else you’re eating. Tangy, spicy, and tropical, amba is a storm of flavors that adds brightness and complexity to the simplest of meals. The Baghdadis developed this taste further and Amba was associated with the famous wood-grilled Masghouf (Tigris trout) on Abou Al-Nawas Street.

The quintessential street food has evolved to be served in Mediterranean-style restaurants around the world. With its deep fermented flavors and spice, amba adds an exciting element that you’ll be tempted to spread on everything and anything.

The First Tango with Mango

The Jews of Iraq claim that they were the first to import amba to Basra from Bombay, India, and then spread it to Baghdad and the rest of the country. It is said that the Sasson family invented the amba sauce, as we know it in Iraq.

Beginning in the 17th century, groups of Iraqi Jewish merchants from Baghdad moved to the Persian Gulf port of Basra and from there onward to Mughal India, where they set up settlements in towns like Bombay, Pune, and Calcutta. Over time, other Jewish Arabs from Aleppo and Yemen also often joined these communities.

In Bombay, the Iraqi Jewish merchants imported dates and Arabian horses from Iraq and exported Indian spices to Basra. They had learned to eat pickled foods with curry and exported several barrels of pickled mangoes seasoned with salt, pepper, and concentrated curry, to the famed Jewish community market (Souq Hanoun) Hanoun market in central Baghdad.

Along with spices, textiles, and luxury goods, recipes also made their way back to Iraq from India. One of these was amba, a delicious and tangy mango pickle that is at both spicy, sweet, and sour, and which became a phenomenal hit across Iraq (and in southwestern Iranian cities like Ahwaz as well).

By the mid-20th century, amba was everywhere; Iraqi Jewish novelist Somekh Sassoon, for example, describes growing up with it on the streets of Baghdad in his autobiography, Baghdad Yesterday.

Baghdadi Jewish cuisine reflects the long impact of the Indian Ocean trade. Amba shares space with dishes like biryani, chicken curry, and parathas as Baghdadi Jewish favorites. They were not alone in adopting the foods of the lands they settled.

The influence of amba on Iraqi cuisine is undeniable. Ingredients in their purest forms were handed over to people to work with, resulting in a unique identity and culinary delight. Iraqi amba pickles are truly different and have become significant part of our palate.

Over time, regional variations of the Iraqi mango amba emerged, each infused with its unique blend of spices and flavors, reflecting the culinary diversity of the product.

Here, There, and Everywhere

In recent years, with the rise of globalization and increased cultural exchange, Iraqi amba has transcended geographical boundaries and captivated taste buds worldwide.

With its rich history and diverse flavors, amba has stood the test of time. From its humble origins as a homemade condiment to its present-day accessibility through platforms and shops worldwide, it delights generations of food enthusiasts all over the Middle East.

Just as the Iraqi Jews took amba to Israel, we, the expatriate sons of Iraq took amba to Michigan, California, London, Paris, and around the world. It has become commonplace to see the mango amba in oriental food shops in Europe and the United States.

Making Amba

The beauty of pickle making lies in the forgiving nature of the time-tested process, making it accessible even to beginners. The ingredients of Iraqi amba are mango slices, salt, vinegar, lemon salt, turmeric, hot peppers, ground fenugreek, dried coriander, curry, and ground spice. 

Almost all these items can be stored in airtight containers and refrigerated for weeks, months, and in some cases, years. The quantities and types of the ingredients used determine the final texture and taste.

In India, mango is the main ingredient; however, Iraqis add other ingredients such as boiled turnips or cooked baby carrots, boiled potatoes, peaches, yellow zucchini, okra, and red and orange peppers to add taste and thickness.

One of the benefits of making amba at home is the ability to personalize it with different seasonings. Traditional Indian versions of the sauce use fenugreek, turmeric, chili, and mustard seeds. Some cooks prefer to elevate the flavors by incorporating tanginess, usually through the addition of vinegar and sour sumac. Garlic and cumin are sometimes used when savory flavors are preferred. Alternative textures can also be achieved — ranging from a smooth mango puree to a chunky, tender mango salsa-like consistency, depending on your taste.

Samoon

Samoon is an Iraqi name for a type of bread. Its name in other Arab countries is aish, khubuz or loaf. It is one of the favorite foods in Iraq, especially at breakfast. It is baked in traditional stone ovens, like pizza, and is one of the most widespread breads in Iraq. The process of making it is like that of making pita bread.

Samoon was not known in the early part of the last century. Iraqis first knew Al-Samoon after the fall of the Ottoman Empire and during the British occupation of Iraq in the 1920s. The type of bread moved to Iraq from Georgia when Armenians immigrated to Iraq at the end of World War I and an Armenian by the name of Simon opened his shop in the western district of Bab Al-Agha in Baghdad.

Iraqis were used to the traditional homemade khubuz and started wondering about this new product and its maker. Unable to pronounce “Simon,” they diluted the word and modified it to “Samoon;” that coined the word in the Iraqi vocabulary.

Simon, an Armenian Christian, concealed his religious beliefs in the new Moslem setting and expressed his Christian faith by shaping his product like a fish, an historical Christian symbol. Ottomans, Lebanese, Syrians, and others made the bread round. Simon’s “samoon” takes the shape of diamond, boat, or fish.

Amba and samoon was one of the popular and inexpensive food pairings that were common in the good days in Baghdad among children and young adults. Kids would go out the school gates and straight to the street cart vendors selling this combination of delicious and filling delight.

The seller cart contained a wooden barrel full of the yellow sauce and a basket of samoon. He slit the bread and spooned amba inside the bread pocket. The price was 10 fils (10 US cents).

This quintessential street food has evolved to be served in Mediterranean-style restaurants around the world. Amba is eaten alone in the form of sandwiches, which the people call amba and samoon; sometimes it is added to falafel sandwiches or shawarma.

Last tango with mango

Ship brand is the most popular amba among the Iraqis. The preference for Ship indicates how late nineteenth-century Basra-Bombay trade routes continue to define the post-colonial Iraqi citizen—whether in Iraq, the United States, or across the diaspora.  

Iraqi amba is a great example of how important history, culture, and taste are to the food we eat. It is something special that travels with Iraqis all over the world. The next time you want to enjoy mango pickles, whether at your favorite Iraqi market, restaurant, or in your own kitchen, let your imagination run wild and create your own unique pickling masterpiece. I am certain that tasting amba will not be your last tango with mango.

Sources: Khaled al-Qashtini, Ali Kash, Raed Jaffar, Mutta Haaretz, Marefa.org, and Alex Shems.